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steelia
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:11 am Post subject: parts and service info for YB7 |
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Hi all- New YB7 owner- Info is scarce on this model so I will share what I have got so far,
I have the downloaded M1 forks manual, A partial YB8 owners manual and a fzr400 owners manual.
I will have the fuel tank capacity the next time I fill her up.
Anyone got anything else.
I am yet to ride the bike much as I am still getting it road registered. I have had one soaking wet ride to the RTA that was vry unsatisfying but cnt wait to get to some twisty roads. |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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It uses a FZR400 2TK exup motor which is the first (1WG) motor. It has lighter valves and sprigs and a close ratio box.
The later FZR400R 3en1 and 3en2 enginge parts should fit ... take good care of the down pipes if they're the Yamaha ones, there are no aftermarket pipes that don't bin the exup valve.
The 2TK CDI doesn't have a Japan home market restriction.
If you need to know about the engine come over to www.400greybike.com forum we'd like to have a Bimota 400 there _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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steelia
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:43 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the reply chook!
I filled the tank today and found it to hold 19 liters- Happy days as I plan to take her down to Phillip isle for the moto gp and need at least 200k range. |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:35 am Post subject: |
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Litres ???
k ?????
Well I guess that's good ... I have an FZR400RR 3TJ (lovely bikes) which has a marginally shorter stroke than the 1WG engine your YB7 uses. It had a KMH speedo and I saw 240 km on it before hitting reserve. I get 130 miles before reserve now with a K+N Filter and after market can.
There's a thought - If you use the standard Yam airbox you can use the FZR600 K+N filter ... worth nothing in horsepower but you can clean it. If the airbox is hard to get on change the carb / airbox rubbers they go hard. _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Evilchicken0 wrote: |
If the airbox is hard to get on change the carb / airbox rubbers they go hard. |
OR.... if they are in good condition, just hard, gently simmer them on a low heat for a couple of minutes and it will give them a new lease of life |
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steelia
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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Liters and Km are standard in Oz! I was born in london so understand your lingo-
I Have registered the bike and have ridden it- I am one happy camper- amazing!
Sucks fiuel pretty hard- used 16.5 liters for 190 km Sheeeet!
I have a problem with the reserve light- doesn't come on and the reserve wont kick in- I will be investigating... will need every litre at the rate it uses it. |
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tlmania
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Devon UK
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:25 am Post subject: |
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YB 7. ..... Hi, I've got photocopys of spares manual and basic handbook for your bike, I'll dig it out and start scanning it........ The fuel reserve light isn't meant to come on to warn you, ........ you get low on fuel, and press it to switch to reserve and this is when it lights up. I had problems with the electronic tap, ..... maybe it's the same as other yamaha ones......? |
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steelia
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:58 am Post subject: |
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Hi Timania,
Any info would be gratefully received.
I had a reearch session devoted to the air filter- turns out it is a Guzzi model MG0001 K&N- Subject to some more measurement but I am pretty sure.
Thanks for the fuel tank tip. I am considering bypassing the fuel light altogether and just using the odo.
The reserve appears to be 2.5- 3 liters out of 19 measured.
BTW - my fuel consumption figures are for me giving the bike a thorough spanking over a road I know well. (the old pacific Highway just north of sydney if you are ever here) |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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I haven't noticed the FZR to be heavy on fuel ... maybe you should wash the airfilter and clean the carbs ... ?
The exup cables shouldn't have any play in them but not be more than finger tight. If you take off the chromed exup cover and turn on the ignition you'll see the valve pulley cycle open and close. There should be two tangs pointing forward, put a pin or bolt between and into the hole in the exhaust housing. Undo the exup servo at the top and th lock nuts on the cables then finger turn to take up any slack and reassemble. Remove the pin / bolt and check the exup cycles and returns to the closed position (you can flick the kill switch to cycle the exup).
When you turn on the igition you should hear the fuel pump clicking, it should slow and stop. If it cuts out abruptly flick the kill switch to off and on again. If the fuel pump clicks slowly it's fine, if it clicks rapidly the floats could do with attention. You have to set the float height with a U tube manometer, the float bowl rubbers can get flattened and not seal.
The FZR 1WG has a normal fuel petcock, but the later 3TJ version has a remote reserve switch like the FZR1000 RU. Bimota may have used something like that. _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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zombie
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 272 Location: UK
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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On my YB8 the emulsion tube/needle jets wore against each other, the tubes became oval and the needle got worn down. Result it ran much much too rich.
Putting a race pipe helped a lot, but then it came to MOT time and the bike felt terrible riding it to the centre. It was quite a low cost fix to change out these parts making the bike a lot more responsive even with the race pipes.
Not sure if this applies to YB7 as well as yB8, but your story sounds familiar.
Cheers Zombie |
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tlmania
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Devon UK
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hi evil chicken, would love to join the 400 forum, but mine's running a 600 engine. Still got teething problems with the rest of the bike, but that's part of the fun
I don't think bimota give a toss what their bikes do to the litre/gallon, but my bro pointed out that both my 600 and my YB 11 will do two laps of the TT before they need fuel .
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Admin Site Admin
Joined: 22 Oct 2007 Posts: 508 Location: Stafford, UK
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Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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steelia wrote: |
I have a problem with the reserve light- doesn't come on and the reserve wont kick in- I will be investigating... will need every litre at the rate it uses it. |
I presume it is the same system as on my Dieci. The reserve light / switch is about 7mm diameter, round and mounted in the clocks. It is a push toggle switch.
Although it gives the impression of being the same as the Yamaha system, it works differently. On the Dieci there are 2 fuel taps on the tank, one taking fuel from the bottom and one from higher up. The first is an electric tap and only opens when you switch to reserve. The 2nd is just a tap so you can disconnect the tank without losing all the petrol.
I did find a company selling the original switches, but could get hold of one from them. I landed up just wiring up a normal switch for reserve.
All the best
Keith |
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steelia
Joined: 06 Jun 2010 Posts: 8 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:59 am Post subject: |
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Thanks to all for all your help- great forum;
Firstly about the carbs- I will be pulling them off for inspection- the bike has only 5000k on the motor so I would think that the problem is more likely some sort of sitting-still-for-a-long-time issue...
Let my good mate ride the bike today- saw puffs of white smoke followed by some darker when revved out- I am obviously concerned (no blue smoke though) so, more evidence that the carbs need some urgent attention.
Also following some traffic commuting after a ride today, the tank pressure was high enough to star a whining noise from the vent! opened the lid and was pretty sure I could hear 'boiling' petrol!! Get pretty hot there.
Rear Indicators are cracked and one just fell apart today- any ideas on what they are?
Also- the fairing is a total Baitch to get off! especially around the front mounts- any tips?
The brake bolts are 7mm allen keys---arghh, I had to go and get a new tool for that one.
And lastly pulled up at the end and the bike was near impossible to push backwards! I think seized rear brake calipers...
Overall- a great ride but the bike needs some shed time |
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zombie
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 272 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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Tip for removing the front fairing - again used to work on the YB8 .
a) Put bike on rear stand.
b) Lift up front wheel of bike and place a 1" cube block under front wheel. Undo the fairing screws etc.
c) Drop the fairing forward and down to the ground,
d) you just need to open the bottom of the fairing 1" and pull it away from the bike, to get it past the block.
The other way to do it is to lift the front right up and slide fairing over the wheel. |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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The 400 forum has a few 400/600 projects on there and we'd be interested in the airbox side of things.
I use a Abba front stand to lift the front up on my SB6 _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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