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Diagnoses help required. Electrical issues.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi niels....and thanks for the kind pm...helpers don't often get thanks....I'm no electrical guru....but my db2,4, 5, 6 ducati engined bimotas are slow chugger when starting but always fire from cold. Except the tesi3d. ..which cranks like billyo like an inline 4...but doesn't fire....certainly the electrical system seems to have better cabling direct to the battery and starter motor....than earlier db models....electricity is like water...it follows the path of least resistance...and i think its drawing too much juice away from sparking...as its the battery that provides the dark until its running of its own accord....sticking it in gear and lifting side stand and pulling clutch...seems to do 2 things...it removes my flickering neutral light...to no light...so the ecu thinks its in gear...which it is....the flickering neutral light continues during running whilst stopped at traffic lights...hut engine running so not a problem....loading the starter motor during starting by being in gear with sudestand up and clutch pulled...it certainly cranks up more sluggish...but always starts....so presumably more electric juice is going to producing a bigger spark...if it aint broke...dont fix it...now you know the fix that is...
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niels550



Joined: 25 Apr 2016
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2021 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 Bims: Can't argue with you because it really works. But, I gotta say it still makes zero sense.

This little affliction is only recent - the bike is 3 years old and only less than 2000 km on the clock. It used to start perfectly a year ago. So whats changed?

And then if I put jumper leads on the battery from my car thus creating pretty much a zero voltage drop during the crank cycle, it starts first up.

So, I bought a Lithium battery with 420CCA and as we know there is minimal voltage drop when a Lithium battery is under load. Well, this fooled the bike for a week or so and then it went back to its old tricks. But it does crank at a furious rate.

My neutral light doesn't flicker but if your contention is that the neutral switch is an issue - and that, by the way, is a good theory! Then maybe we may have a failing neutral switch or just high resistance???
This is my next line of investigation, I'll order a new switch and change it out and see what happens. May well be a batch of crap switches as both our bikes are the same age?

Will advise when I get an answer.

I'm also going to take it to shop with a Walbro reader so they can see whats happening during the start cycle.

Cheers

niels
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