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oil leak
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 10:49 pm    Post subject: oil leak Reply with quote

Hi Guy's with time on my side l'm bringing my SB6R out of it's deep sleep. I've not ridden it on the road for the best part of 10yrs since l went in for treatment for cancer. I've cleaned the carbs and managed to get her started so a result there. Years ago whilst under warranty it had a alternator drive coupling failure this was repaired twice l believe. Anyway having taken the fairing off for a deep clean l can see that there's a trace of a engine oil leak from around the clutch mechanism final drive sprocket area, the only work that's been carried out on the bike apart from routine servicing has been the alternator drive coupling repair. Question, is it possible that there a gasket or seal that's failed or been poorly fitted and secondly if so, is this something that can be repaired with the engine in or is it a engine out op?
Regards
Chris
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess the first thing is how much oil - a bit of a sweep can wait for a while while you ride it.
It could be some old oil from before the repair, some old chain lube or both that loosen up now the engine has been run.

Clean it as best you can and see if it happens again
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I agree with Evil.... give it a really good clean and check over and then run it for a while. You might be able to see exactly where the clean oil is leaking from. If not, ride it for a while and check it again.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check if it is OIL....and that its not your clutch slave cylinder thats leaking...although thats difficult to check as its behind the frame spar....Have you tried riding the bike...do you get good clutch pressure/release on the clutch master?
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning fellas thanks for the replies. Defo engine oil will give it a good clean up and try and find the source of the leak, will be right back hopefully with some pics
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning fellas thanks for the replies. Defo engine oil will give it a good clean up and try and find the source of the leak, will be right back hopefully with some pics
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 555
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 12:28 pm    Post subject: Oil Leak Reply with quote

First off, happy you’re still with us! Everything else is a bonus.
From what you’ve said, it’s a leak from the starter clutch cover, rather than the clutch, given that you referenced the generator coupler replacement. When the cover was put back it should have had a bead of sealant under it. I don’t think it will do much more than weep without the sealant. To get that cover off again, to apply the sealant, you will need to pivot the motor on its front mountings - it’s not necessary to drop it completely out of the frame. But of course that does mean rad and downpipes off.
For future reference, preservation of the coupler means never trying to start it without a high CCA battery fully charged.
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Posts: 33
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Leak Reply with quote

Jonny B Bad wrote:
First off, happy you’re still with us! Everything else is a bonus.
From what you’ve said, it’s a leak from the starter clutch cover, rather than the clutch, given that you referenced the generator coupler replacement. When the cover was put back it should have had a bead of sealant under it. I don’t think it will do much more than weep without the sealant. To get that cover off again, to apply the sealant, you will need to pivot the motor on its front mountings - it’s not necessary to drop it completely out of the frame. But of course that does mean rad and downpipes off.
For future reference, preservation of the coupler means never trying to start it without a high CCA battery fully charged.

Jonny your not wrong 10yrs on and trying to make the best of it, live life like its your last day. Thanks for your input on the leak that makes sense and a possible place for the leak Suzuki's not know for dropping oil and not being one for having oil leaking on a bike endangering myself and others l will take a look. I suppose whilst l'm down there l may as well fit a new final drive sprocket, l take it this can be done with the engine in this position? Any pointers as to where to order replacement exhaust gaskets and drive sprockets?
Thanks again
Regards
Chris
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
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Location: NE London

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 8:07 pm    Post subject: Oil leak Reply with quote

Lives, as with bikes, as with women - ring the bugger’s neck and see what you can get out of it Laughing
Yes, change chain & sprocks whilst you’re in there. Engine sprocket is Renthal 289-530-15p, assuming you’re running standard gearing - widely available. You’ll want to change the clutch slave seal while you’re in there and that’s where the can of worms opens & drops in your lap! If it’s still got the original slave cylinder, it’s sleeved, to work with the master cylinder. I’ve yet to come across anybody who knows where the piston came from, so sourcing a seal is a problem. You can go back to a standard Gixxer slave, but then you’ll need to change the master. Sounds like a lot of faff, but this is a bullet best bitten whilst the motor’s down, as opposed to when the seal gives out and it’s now 20+ years old and on borrowed time.
Exhaust gaskets are 41mm I’d and widely available, both original and after-market.
Good luck.
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
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Location: NE London

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 11:06 pm    Post subject: Oil leak Reply with quote

Did I say 41mm id? I meant 41mm od.
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
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Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2020 11:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil leak Reply with quote

Jonny B Bad wrote:
Lives, as with bikes, as with women - ring the bugger’s neck and see what you can get out of it Laughing
Yes, change chain & sprocks whilst you’re in there. Engine sprocket is Renthal 289-530-15p, assuming you’re running standard gearing - widely available. You’ll want to change the clutch slave seal while you’re in there and that’s where the can of worms opens & drops in your lap! If it’s still got the original slave cylinder, it’s sleeved, to work with the master cylinder. I’ve yet to come across anybody who knows where the piston came from, so sourcing a seal is a problem. You can go back to a standard Gixxer slave, but then you’ll need to change the master. Sounds like a lot of faff, but this is a bullet best bitten whilst the motor’s down, as opposed to when the seal gives out and it’s now 20+ years old and on borrowed time.
Exhaust gaskets are 41mm I’d and widely available, both original and after-market.
Good luck.

Hi Jonny, any idea of the product code for the rear sprocket? Also any tips on how to lock up the gearbox drive sprocket with the engine dropped and drive chain disconnected? Regarding the clutch slave unit. I'll go with the old adage if it's not broke don't fix it! "I'll probably live to regret it sods law and all lol"
Cheers for your help
Regards
Chris
P.S Radiator and Zorts now disconnected hopefully we'll get a look at things tomorrow.
P.S is this any thing like the Bimota slave unit? eBay item number:
264001374543
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
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Location: NE London

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 12:01 pm    Post subject: Oil leak Reply with quote

Morning Chris

I’ve ditched my original wheels, so I’m now using a different sprocket. Once you’ve got yours off and can measure hole centres & dimensions you could ring B&C Express & they should be able to sort you out.

To undo the engine sprocket nut, I leave the chain on and jam a length of 3 x 2 between wheel spoke and swing arm.

I’m afraid that aftermarket slave for a Duke won’t do the trick. I spent so much time trying to solve this problem a few years back, that I swore I’d never go back to it, having gone back to a standard Gixxer slave and a bigger master. But now you’ve prompted me to look at it again, I may be able to come up with a more cost-effective fix. You’ll have to leave it with me for few days and I’ll let you know. Which ever way it goes, the old adage will not serve you well here - you want to address it, as the incremental effort while you’ve got it in pieces is negligible compared to losing your clutch while you’re out on a ride!
Good luck getting that nut off😀
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Chrissb6



Joined: 11 Jan 2012
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Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 9:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil leak Reply with quote

Jonny B Bad wrote:
Morning Chris

I’ve ditched my original wheels, so I’m now using a different sprocket. Once you’ve got yours off and can measure hole centres & dimensions you could ring B&C Express & they should be able to sort you out.

To undo the engine sprocket nut, I leave the chain on and jam a length of 3 x 2 between wheel spoke and swing arm.

I’m afraid that aftermarket slave for a Duke won’t do the trick. I spent so much time trying to solve this problem a few years back, that I swore I’d never go back to it, having gone back to a standard Gixxer slave and a bigger master. But now you’ve prompted me to look at it again, I may be able to come up with a more cost-effective fix. You’ll have to leave it with me for few days and I’ll let you know. Which ever way it goes, the old adage will not serve you well here - you want to address it, as the incremental effort while you’ve got it in pieces is negligible compared to losing your clutch while you’re out on a ride!
Good luck getting that nut off😀

Been in touch with Oberon
http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Clutch_Slave_Cylinders_CSC.html
They say they should be able to fix me up with a 28.5 slave cylinder as they actually make them, trouble is there machine shop is almost on stop due this bloody virus. They guy was really helpfully and said he would get back l will keep you posted.
Chain already off l'm expecting a battle with the nut. I didn't think l would be able to get the right tool and power on the nut with it stuck behind the frame. Time on my side at the moment
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will be a sprocket code stamped on it somewhere - my Marchesini wheels used a gsxr1100.
To hold the sprocket use a mole grip style clutch holding tool - very useful bit of kit https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F164138327586
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To hold the sprocket with the engine out, you can usually grab the sprocket teeth with a pair of channel lock pliers. The sprocket teeth are hard so won't be damaged.
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