Bimota Forum

welshlamb · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:16 pm Post subject: something to hold on to!

we all need "something to hold on to" .....well in this case ..literally

The tubes could do with rechroming. Has anyone taken these style clip ons apart before? It looks like the tube is just a press fit but maybe there is an inner tube (hard to see) that is hammered in to expand the tube into the alloy piece. I don't want to damage it so any thoughts/guidance would be appreciated.

I have also noted that the alloy parts arent just 'polished' but have had some sort of clear anodising. This prevents you from just polishing the parts as it just dulls the coating. Anyone else come up against this and found a solution??
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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Do not....I repeat....DO NOT....attempt to get the chrome steel bars out....if you removed the plug on the other end. ..you would see theres a ring inside the bar at the clip on....hydraullically pressed in with the weight if the earth on them....causing a ringed ripple inside....I've tried....oxy acetalyne and thetmic lance.....nowt shifts them....spares came with the part already swaged on........parts are cast...then polished to rid cast lines...then anodised....to get back to new...you'd have to reverse and reprocess both processes....solvel should shine them up....light buffing wheel....gt85 to clean...

welshlamb · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 6:03 pm Post subject:

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Soak them in end down in a glass of Full fat coca cola cheap brand.....and scrub with silver foil...TBH....theres precious little of the chrome bars showing once you've fitted the grips, switchgear and brake and clutch master perches......perhaps one centimetre towards the end is all thats remaining visible....depending on how you set up the 3 elements....grips further out of further in.....BUT...all depends on what masters you are intending to use....Threres precious little room lock to lock for the res pots if going for remote pots.....the position of everything hinges on getting those in a position so the pots dont clip the underside of the fairing winglets where the screen/mirrors are....intolerably fine tolerances....The Bimota Vdue clocks....actually have 2 number preformed cut outs in the die cast metal surround of the stark style LED dash.....which the remote pot for the front brake slots into lock to lock...and on the clutch side...its the clutch banjo bolt and line that goes into a recess lock to lock....so its "grips on" last....be warned....

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

You can actually see the raised circular ridge on the inside of your clip on in your photo....as if they made a grove on the outside so when its compressed during fitting.....it "splurges" out that crease line,,,,as nothing else is holding them onto the clamps....no bindings or bolts or anything

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Youre setting a VERY high bar for yourself with those first few pieces Ralph....good on ya....just hope that you last seeing it through to its completion......Suspension unit looks top notch.....right colour yellow for the spring.....and nice gold finish back on the threaded body also....no mention of cost though?...perhaps text it when I'm sat down

I'll have to post off some new spiral bound cable tidy for you though..I cant believe you've taken the refreshed photo with the dirty old faded cable tidy plastic liner on it still....

Brembo rear caliper...hhhmmmmm…..I picked up 2 new ones in January for 90 euros each...with new pads in them....and...Ahem......They came out of a new box full of them...perhaps 50 in total....Last "ahem"..is that generally the brembo logo'd "b rear calipers are the "more" original than ones with Brembo written on them in the casting....my DB2, DB4 and Vdue all have their original calipers and just the "b" logo...but...it is bimotas...so they probably had a box full of different types....Whats next to be attacked?.....text me your address again and I'll happily put 2 sizes of suitable lengths of same spiral bound cable tidy in an envelope for you....as that grotty piece on a clean unit is killing my OCD...….

welshlamb · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 10:18 pm Post subject:

Well.. yes I’m trying to go an extra mile on this,, probably cause It will be a keeper, its a Bimota and also because the standard of other folks restos I’ve seen on here (incl yours!) have already set a high bar. But it wont be entirely “Triggers broom’. Ie all new parts. Any changes will be ‘in period’ and I’ll be refinishing the original parts where possible.

Will give you a call re the spiral wrap. (I think I may have some here but forgot that in my haste to take a photo!) and the rear calliper.
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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

welshlamb · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:51 am Post subject: I've been framed

As stated earlier its difficult getting work done externally at present due to Covid... but at least I managed to get the frame and various attachments off to the coaters before the shutters came down. Apparently the frame was stripped and prepared at the coaters but didnt make it any further...

The main frame was in OK (but tired) condition.

However there were several areas of cracked/scraped paint on the swinging arm. I rubbed these all down with a scotchbrite wheel but most revealed lovely CroMo steel and very tidy TIG welding underneath. The only real damage were a scrape where the chain passed through the bracing on the arm and a significant dent on the RHS of the swinging arm! Virtually no damage to the front end of the swingarm (front spindle clamp area) which often ges eaten away by the chain and makes getting the clamp bolt out even more difficult. Thanks for small mercies!

Hard to see what caused the dent as no other damage adjacent. I also checked that wheel square and aligned in the frame and all seemed OK. Checked also with plumb line with wheel off floor.

Finally decided to get the abrasion/dent built back up with TIG weld by local shop. Did a very good job and virtually impossible to see where repairs made. (Hands up... I did take some photos of the repairs but then deleted the pics from the camera after I THOUGHT I had transferred to the PC Hard drive...my mistake DOH!) In any case you can just about see the repair in the main picture of the pices prior to despatch to the coaters.

The frame number is VERY lightly stamped on the frame so the coater will only put a light coating in that area.

Will just have to wait now until the coater restarts his business!
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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

welshlamb · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 10:21 am Post subject:

Prepping the wheels before coating was fun (NOT!)

Apart from the cush drive issues (see above) the PITA was removing the front discs.

After heating, penetrating oil and much grunting and swearing I had to resort to drilling ALL BUT ONE of the fasteners and then hammering in a torx bit to get any purchase to get them out. Button heads may look smart but they cannot handle high torques from ham fisted owners and the heads chew up more easily than 'standard' or even low profile hex capscrews.!

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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Very nice Welsh lamb...but...please dont tell me you ground off the structural weld on the swinging arm rhs....at the back...bimota drilled right thru the crmo lower tube to push fit the threaded brake caliper retaining pin....and they welded 2 point fixing gas either side of the pin....so the ugly rough weld mark on the front face is factory standard....

welshlamb · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 10:53 am Post subject:

welshlamb · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 11:02 am Post subject:

The engine was of unknown history and although Centrepoint had posted a video of it running that didnt give me a very warm glow.!

[/url= https://www.facebook.com/Centrepointwholesale/videos/562563694229869[url]

I've always felt that the DB2/DB4 models could handle and benefit from a bit more oomph. Certainly folks who have done this seem to have few regrets (other than fuel bills!!) As I was going for a rebuild and know my own limits I have entrusted the engine to Ducati specialists Louigi Moto (south of Bristol)

Spec once rebuilt will include 904cc (standard) but with high comp pistons, cyl head rework (shaping and valve guides) to improve air flow , SS900ie camshafts, light flywheel and FCR39 flatsides. All new billet clutch basket/plate and alloy friction plates to be added and oil cooler will be relocated to the 900ssFE/SS900ie position. Will also have a cosmetic refresh, cause its a Bimota (and deserves itin any case) but also being half fairing model the engine is more on show.

The engine has been stripped down but
-Crank balancing subcon is on lockdown
-Nikasil plater on lockdown
-I can't collect the covers/casings for refinishing,

I'll report back when there's some news!!
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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

welshlamb · Posted: Tue May 05, 2020 11:32 am Post subject: DB2J 400 22x/106

Well one of the sideshows of this resto is that I bought a slightly mucked about with DB2J from Japan as a donor bike. When it arrived it was that rare thing , actually better than anticipated and probably too nice to break for spares so now likely at some point it will be recommissioned for the road/sale. However I still wanted the tank/seat unit and some other bits for my main rebuild .

Some time ago I saw what is in all honesty probably the ugliest DB2 seat unit ever on Yahoo.japan. Looked like it had been rattle can sprayed and then had hot rod flames and wierd graphics applied. Probably a proud ride for some Japanese biker-gang boy. Anyway it was clearly unloved, even in Japan. After tracking it for many many weeks the seller eventually reduced the price to a level that made purchase feasible for me.

The shipment arrived yesterday and here it is (in all its glory!)

Hopefully you'll agree with my estimation of its aesthetics as TERRIBLE. However despite the cosmetic train wreck and a couple of scrapes where the bike has clearly been down on RHS there is no cracking on inside of the unit and the unit still has the vital seat units and petrol cap fitted. (key even works!!). Tail end was chopped (no lights/number plate section) for that essential 'street racer' look (as I cant believe anyone actually raced a DB2 400?) but I should be able to copy the missing section and aattach to the main unit.

As I wanted to get the seat recovered on my main resto I will now use these ones as a base and so keep the original seats on the donor bike (when I get around to that!)

Trying to minimise costs in that area so may go for a 'single colour' paint scheme for the donor when I get to it. Have to say I quite liked this scheme I found on Google; a bit Ducati 748 ish; which is no bad thing IMHO.

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Not as many bikes as I would like and already too many to keep up with!

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

That yellow one is all right...but...tbh...the lines the sculpted db2 bodywork more suit swipes and swirls....do the one off db2 junior red white slashes that bimota showed at eicma 1993...unique....and....why paint?....fix it all up...fill...rub flat...and have it wrapped for 3 to 400 gbp....they can do whole units on one sheet nowadays with no creases or overlaps...if your saw the cagiva in the flesh...youd swear it was a 1500swuid paint job...

rOLLI · Joined: 10 Jan 2019 Posts: 97 Location: germany

Hey, this yellow looks absolutely nice !
I own such a yellow 996 ... so ...

By the way, still searching such a rear seat for DB2

Kind regards Roland
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