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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon
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 Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:39 am Post subject: Riding again!! |
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For the first time since Sept. 27th I rode my 'mota today! The cast came off of my hand last Wed. and could not stand it any longer! Sliding into my leather jacket felt so sweet, and putting a couple of miles on the bike just felt soon good
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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JRH
Joined: 21 Jan 2013
Posts: 223
Location: West Mids/North East
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Nothing better than some good news in the morning!!!
Enjoy😃 |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:57 am Post subject: |
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Cool - take it steady and do the physio
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:54 am Post subject: |
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| Congrats spike...and yeh...take it easy and physio is most important...presumably you've thrown the damaged parts back on for your ride until Italy shakes into action for your new spares? |
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vort28
Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK
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| Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Good to hear Spike, nothing like a waiting Bimota to hurry the healing process up.
Is the 5R repaired now ? |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:48 am Post subject: |
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Right now I have a "Road Warrior" model DB5. It works just dandy, and when the panels finally show up from Italy I may install them!
Does anyone know if it is a good idea to clear coat bare aluminum?
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 11:15 am Post subject: |
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Clear coating/lacquer to metal? I'm no painter but in my cases where I've tried, whether it be polished steel or alloy...is a lack of adhesion for the lacquer in that it flakes off VERY easily...even when cured properly.......theres just not enough roughness in the metal surface to give the lacquer something to hold onto like it would if the surface was roughed over first....but then you wouldnt want to rough over a polished metal surface if you were lacquering it.....Speak to painters though as it may be just the lacquer I've used......It would seem that most if not all mainstream bike manufacturers choose not to coat alloy that has a smooth finish.........The likes of Ducati that have sandcast alloy actually choose to paint it....but all milled/honed alloy...or polished alloy tanks are usally left bare.
Is it the tank that you are thinking of? |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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If the ally is polished properly it shouldn't need a lacquer. Proper buffing mops seal or pleen the surface then put the shine onto it. You'll need to polish it again, maybe once a year to take the oxidisation off.
My SB6 frame and swingarm are polished
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Evilchicken0 wrote: |
If the ally is polished properly it shouldn't need a lacquer. Proper buffing mops seal or pleen the surface then put the shine onto it. You'll need to polish it again, maybe once a year to take the oxidisation off.
My SB6 frame and swingarm are polished |
Those are fair points.......I also use "alumagic"...a metal polish for alloys, copper, brass and stainless steel........you rub this in and leave for a few minutes for the wax to harden...and then buff to a high polish....and the hardened wax leaves a protective coat to give at least 3 months protection against tarnishing, rain spots etc.......other products are available |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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I use a buffing mop on a drill - you only need the finishing polish
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, 24bims, it is the tank of which I speak. It has a fairly rough surface, as it appears to not have been quite finished. I am smoothing the surface with abrasives, I need to start at 60 to 80 grit! I am a bit Leary of over sanding as I do not know how thick the material is, but I suspect that I have nothing to worry about.
The Japanese makers habitually clear coat over their polished engine cases, so it is possible. I think that I will rely on a bit of wax once I have reached the finish that I am happy with.
This tank was reportedly purchased from the company that was making them for Bimota, I am wondering if maybe this was a prototype. Either that or the order was canceled just before the thing was done!
Thanks for all the input!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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vort28
Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Might be worth having a look at the Ducati Panyless superleggra has a painted and alloy tank, but don't know if it is all larquered over or just left bare. Might give you an idea if possible or not. |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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| vort28 wrote: |
| Might be worth having a look at the Ducati Panyless superleggra has a painted and alloy tank, but don't know if it is all larquered over or just left bare. Might give you an idea if possible or not. |
Not sure if that particualr tank is alloy or steel...it is lacquered though...but the finish underneath is a satin grained look which would aid adhesion......... |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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| vort28 wrote: |
| Might be worth having a look at the Ducati Panyless superleggra . |
Don't you mean "Pantyless"?
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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vort28
Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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Pantyless it is , but got a bit excited  |
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