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Info needed Ohlins fork DB5R
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 5:05 pm    Post subject: Info needed Ohlins fork DB5R Reply with quote

Hi guys, sadly I have to tell that my DB5R is a little bit ill.

As the title do suspect it’s the forks. Both of the forks are leaking oil. Crying or Very sad Probably it’s because I use the bike not enough and this is her protest. And the one day I had time to ride the DB5R she is doing this to me.

My question, does someone have info about the Olhins fork. Where can I find the seals, how many oil or air chamber? What is the oil thickness? Etz..
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vince
A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new. Albert Einstein
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SpikeC



Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

32bims will prolly supply info, but I have been through this with mine. For a temporary fix you can use a product called "SealMate" that is a hunk of plastic that you slide around the inside of the seal to clean it and reseat it. A Google search will turn it up. To replace the seals a couple of special tools are needed which can be fabricated if you are willing to go through the dance.
I needed to replace the foot of my right leg as well as the seals and after reading up on people's experiences on the web I elected to take my fork legs into an Öhlins specialist to have the work done. It cost me about $350 U.S. get it done, but it was done during one day and works perfectly, they also set the oil level for my riding weight.
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SpikeC wrote:
32bims will prolly supply info, but I have been through this with mine. For a temporary fix you can use a product called "SealMate" that is a hunk of plastic that you slide around the inside of the seal to clean it and reseat it. A Google search will turn it up. To replace the seals a couple of special tools are needed which can be fabricated if you are willing to go through the dance.
I needed to replace the foot of my right leg as well as the seals and after reading up on people's experiences on the web I elected to take my fork legs into an Öhlins specialist to have the work done. It cost me about $350 U.S. get it done, but it was done during one day and works perfectly, they also set the oil level for my riding weight.


I googled the sealmate, a smart idea. Only, there is too much oil leaked out. I don’t know what caused the problem. Strange thing, it’s both forks and it is a static leak. I don’t think it is caused by dirt. It seems that the seals have been damaged by a chemical reaction.
The special tools I can make myself, that's a challenge that I like. For now I need the part number seal, recommended oil and the length of the air chamber.
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vince
A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new. Albert Einstein
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

32 bims is on the isle of man for tt week....on db5r...with vort on his db7....no other bims sighted to date...until bimotanige turns up today....cant recall the exact ohlins model number used on the 5r...its on one of spikes posts re damage repairs....seem to recall fgr43??....you can find them on ohlins eu websites...with downloadable manuals etc.....and spare parts codes etc...
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Garynuttall



Joined: 24 Apr 2014
Posts: 27
Location: Cape town

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not that I can help with the fork problem but nice to know you are in good company - I have the same problem but only a slight leak and still ok to ride.
I do suspect you are correct as mine too isnt ridden that often and was standing for a while with the previous owner - doesnt cjhange the fact its the most beautiful bike ever made ! Very Happy
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SpikeC



Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the oil goes, it is Öhlins fork oil and only comes in one grade. On mine they set the air gap at 120mm.
They charged me $75 for the seal kit, so just look for something way overpriced and you should have the right ones!

Oh, btw, they have a new style of dust wiper with the seal kit. It has an external spring on it. It may help with the traditional early seal failure that Öhlins is famous for. (Low strict ion, yea know!)
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.
I have enough information to work with.
I will keep you informed..
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vince
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vort28



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forks are generic Ohlins R&T43mm , seals are all the same , model code is only for spring rates etc. Seals and dust covers are common .
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parts are ordered, hope to have them next week.
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vince
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seals and oil arrived. On advice of a suspension specialist not the Ohlins seal but SKF.
These should be better than the Ohlins. Also low friction and better sealing. Two springs in one seal.
It’s a complete set, oil seal, dust seal and retainer.
I like the green color it will suits the bike well..

Now I'm hoping to get some man cave time..


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vince
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dust caps and seals changed. Not a hard job to do. Plenty of videos on youtube of how to.

The old forkoil was not Ohlins I think, it was red colored. The oil I had from Ohlins was as clear as water. The viscosity is also different I guess. During the test ride the bike feels hard to the front. I have end up with two clicks softer for the rebound an compression. 'm not completely satisfied yet but it gives me a reason to ride more often to get the trusted adjustment again.Wink


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vince
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SpikeC



Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool stuff! What did you use to disassemble the fork legs? Pics of tools are needed!!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But of course Spike, photo on request.
I was lucky that I could borrow this set from a friend.


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vince
A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new. Albert Einstein
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SpikeC



Joined: 20 Aug 2013
Posts: 450
Location: Portland, Oregon

PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Vince! very informative. I could make the stanchion holders out of hardwood. Determining the the spacing of the pins on the other tool will take a bit of research I suspect!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm also going to make a set for myself. You never know if I have to do this again in the future. I make some drawings of the tools and as soon as I have some free time I will make my own set.

For the endcap you can use a pin spanner wrench, see picture.


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vince
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