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Newbie exhaust question

 
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waggytee



Joined: 16 Nov 2013
Posts: 54
Location: Shropshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 4:39 pm    Post subject: Newbie exhaust question Reply with quote

Just doing a few simple things to the bike ahead of it's first ride out in the spring, and have come across an issue which I'm sure one of you more technical people will be able to advise on.

I've taken off the exhaust system (stock DB5S) and a friend has kindly polished it up for me - I've re-fitted it (twice now!) and keep getting leaks from the central cat/collector (2-1-2) - Is this something that will settle down after a few miles of vibrations / heat cycles, or is something not right?

Didn't know whether during the polishing process the spring lugs may have been knocked out so they're not pulling the system together as tightly as they should?

Any advise appreciated before I take it apart again next weekend.
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CNC



Joined: 19 Jul 2013
Posts: 257
Location: Slovenia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe one question... Are you sure you put together pipes correctly... sometimes is hard to tell, because they tend to be a little snug. I don't think you "over" polished it at the ends that they become too thin and lost tightness?
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Bimota DB7, Bimota DB5 Mille, Ducati 916, Ducati M900, Benelli Tornado Tre
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Waggy...as CNC says...the placement of the X piece 2:1:2 is critical...it only goes one way round, kicking off to the left when you look at it from behind....

Theres pictures here on this link of the right orientation....the Xpiece has twin walls on the ends so the link pipes and end cans should be pushed home "tight" into the X piece to ensure a good fit without leaks....this can take a bit of twisting and turning to figure out when they are puched home tight


http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=3316&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

....I measured the depth inside of the Xpiece twin wall with a small screwdriver...then relayed that onto the connecting pipes and put tape on the pipes at that point so I knew when they were Rammed home to the ends...without the ability to go further.....get the headers on first without tightening them too much on the collars.....then the Xpiece...ensuring the bottoms connecters are rammed home properly...then bolt up the connector bracket to the engine (front header)...then tighten up the header flange and collar bolts...so its not going anywhere...then swing in the end cans in a side to side twisting motion and they will locate downwards to full depth.....then rear bracket under seat.

They will "smoke" at the joins initally as they are "bedding in" normally because the polishing involves adding wax to the polishing wheels...this should burn off and smoke away after a short while...the twin wall arrangement should stop leaks as smoke would have to return and come back on itself to get out which it wouldnt want to do....

All else failing...especially if the fitted ends of the headers and end cans have been over polished...would be to use exhaust gasket paste....which after heating up will self seal..although stink and smoke like heck when engine is first fired up....

Best of luck...Oh...and pictures please....we all like to help...but only if we get pictures....

Last thing I fitted was the springs....of which there should be 4...from recollection the X piece has 2 springs fitted to each lug, at least on the bottom of the X...one is easy...the other was a swine to pull down due to limited access...had to grab it with my spring puller...and add over long cable ties to the handle to be able to pull it from underneath...as there was no space to get my hand in and pull it down....
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waggytee



Joined: 16 Nov 2013
Posts: 54
Location: Shropshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Both and thanks for the replies.

I think it's on the right way around - there only seemed to be one right way around but after your comments I think it may be worth another look

I coincidentally followed the same install sequence as 2Bims and one of the joints seemed to stop leaking after 3 or 4 minutes, so hopefully just wax. Sorry for the crap photo - dark congested garage !, I'll have a closer look at the weekend

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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries Waggy,,,,,comparing the piccies between bikes your right end can does look like it can go down at least another 5mm...too much of the end can pipe showing...this may manifest itself that the end can sits too close under the rear seat unit.....just undo the two bolts holding it under the seat to the bracket and pull and push from side to side and it should lower itself in further into the X piece...which you have the right way around so no worries there... usually drop the rear indicators forst but leave connected to allow the end cans to swing in and out easier....and work them down further into the union
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waggytee



Joined: 16 Nov 2013
Posts: 54
Location: Shropshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers 2bims - good call regarding removing the indicators to give more leverage - I'll give that a go at the weekend.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308

PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh...of course yours being a twin seat you'll have to drop the rear pillion footpeg hangers also....but then you'll find that the exhaust cans can swing fully in and out and this will bring them lower into the X piece...seems made for that purpose...easiest rear can change I've ever made....the standard indicators are quite inflexible...and can be know to crack as a result...so merely undo the locking nut on the back and let them hang loose with the connecters in place...no need to undo...previous owner of my DB5R went through 3 sets of standard indicators from the factory before replacing with some flexible rubber coupling versions...mind you he was running the Open Zard titanium cans so a few more vibes to say the least......No need to remove any bodywor...cans swing clear of them and up under the seat
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